So you want to buy an AR-15 - FAQs

[jwise]

NIGHT SIGHTS AND OPTICS

Regardless which upper you get, you will need sights that can be seen at night. This should need not be explained to those who are currently on the job. Just like the night sights on your duty pistol (you DO have night sights on your duty pistol, right?), you can get them for your rifle. You can just get the front sight, or the front and rear set.

If you choose to get a red dot optic, the night sights are unnecessary as they would just be redundant (and could create a "busy" sight picture.)

Red Dot

As for red dot optics, fighting rifles should be equipped with EOTech or Aimpoint red dot optics. The others are for gamers, not serious work guns.

Variable power scopes

Exceptions would be low power variable optics (1-4X) with illuminated reticles. The quality ones cost two, three, or four times as much as the most expensive red dot optic, so I'm not going to talk about these. I'll just say "S&B Short Dot", "Meopta K-Dot", "Leupold MR2", and "US Optics SN4."

Fixed magnification scopes

Fixed 3X and 4X scopes would include ACOGs, IOR Valdada, Elcan Spectre DR, or the magnifiers by EOTech and Aimpoint.

BUIS

Your rifle (even though it is equipped with an optic) will also need to be euipped with a Back Up Iron Sight (BUIS.) I am a firm belliever in running a fixed BUIS behind 1X red dot optics (EOTech and Aimpoints) and flip-up BUIS behind/under magnified optics. LaRue is my choice for fixed BUIS, and Troy is my pick for a flip. ARMS also makes good stuff. In fact, there are lots of good ones out there with only a few bad ones.

FLASH SUPPRESSORS

My personal favorite happens to be made by AAC, and it is called the M4-2000 mod 07. Actually, it's a sound suppressor, but it also COMPLETELY eliminates the flash! But if you're not looking at spending $1k on a flash hider, there are other options!

The A2 birdcage is what comes standard on almost every rifle out there. It is a fine flash hider, and serves to protect the muzzle of your rifle as well. However, a lot of folks want to get a shorter, handier rifle, and opt for a 14.5" carbine with a permanently welded on Flash Hider (FH) to bring them to the legal barrel length of 16". For this, an aftermarket flash hider (Phantom, Vortex, etc...) is needed, as the A2 birdcage is just shy of the 1.5" needed. CMMG, recognizing this issue, makes 14.7" barrels that (when fixed with an A2 birdcage) meets the 16" needed while still retaining the classic look of the M4. It also does away with needing the 1.5" flash hider, that costs a LOT more than a $5 A2! Smith Vortex FHs cost $50, whereas the YHM Phantoms cost around $25.

HANDGUARDS

The standard handguard that will come on your carbine, will either be CAR handguards or M4 handguards. The M4 handguards will be subdivided into single heat-shield, or double heat-shield handguards. Colt specs out the double heat-shielded handguards for the M4. While these protect the shooter from the hot barrel, the double heat-shielded handguards are most appropriate on full-auto guns. Still, it's nice to have the added protection, because believe me, I've shot my single heat-shielded M4 handguards so hot I couldn't hold them!! (Good times!)

Bushmaster ships their carbines with CAR grips. If you like them, fine. If not, it's $30 to upgrade to the single heat-shielded guards, and $50 to go to the double.

CMMG provides the single heat-shielded guards standard, but allows you to upgrade to double for only $20.

The other type of handguard is the railed forearm. While certainly popular, railed handguards can add a significant amount of weight to the front of your carbine. This weight is well worth it in certain circumstances, but you must decide how you want to set up your rifle beforehand, taking into consideration your policies and tactical parameters we discussed early on.

In my case, I wanted to be able to carry my rifle in the front cab of my squad, and not have to leave it in the trunk. The vertical rifle racks that are installed are meant to fit the M4 handguards, and will not fit around any railed handguard I have tried. So my patrol rifle wears standard M4 handguards.

If you decide (as others in my dept) that you would rather have the railed handguards than keep it up front, then this opens another option to you. There are two types of railed forearms/handguards: Free Float and non-Free Float.

Free Float

This will allow you to mount optics on your forend, instead of just on your flattop upper. This is advantageous if you have an A2/A1 upper, and do not want to change over to the A3, or if you just prefer the red dot optic to be further out from your face. Lasers can also be mounted to free float forends. Furthermore, as its name suggests, it "free floats" the barrel. This gives you another edge in accuracy that will probably go unnoticed, unless you scope it and shoot it over sandbags. On a cosmetic appeal, free float handguards feel more "solid" than their counterparts, and mounting VFGs on them will work well (won't "flex" the handguard.)

Certain free float tubes are "one-piece", and require the removal of the FSB to install, and others are "two piece" and can go on with the FSB in place. Get the one that you like better, and be sure you have the skill handle the installation (or get your gunsmith to do it!)

Main players:
Daniel Defense
LaRue
Samson
Midwest Industries
Knights Armament Co (KAC)
ARMS
Troy
YHM (Yankee Hill Machine)
PRI

I chose Troy.

Non-Free Float

These handguards are simpler to install, as they quite literally replace the plastic handguards. Sometimes they come with a tightening screw (KAC RAS) to make them more stable, but other times they do not. These are fine for VFGs and lights, but not optics/lasers. These were often cheaper than the free float tubes, but not so much anymore.

Main Players:
Surefire
ARMS
Knights Armament Co (KAC)
First Samco
Fobus

My Patrol Rifle Dilemma

My problems didn't stop with just the forearm, the locking mechanism closed right where a VFG (Vertical Fore Grip) would normally be located, not to mention where I commonly set up my weapon light. This required a bit of creativity on my part to figure out how to set up the rifle with a weaponlight, and still be able to lock it in the rack. I ended up with a Streamlight M3LED (before the M3X came out) on a TDI bayonet lug mount. This got the light off the handguards, which allowed me to lock the rack over the M4 handguards and keep my rifle both secure, and up front with me! Remember your tactical parameters!


WEAPONLIGHTS

My favorite configuration for a rifle-mounted weapon light is in a Daniel Defense Offset Light Mount attached to the 3 o'clock rail, just in front of my VFG. This allows me to hold the VFG with my off (left) hand and activate the push button with my left thumb. (pictured below)



The light pictured is a Night Ops (Blackhawk) Falcata 9v incandescent light. It is equipped with a shock isolated bezel, which permits it to be used as a weaponlight. Otherwise, an LED is preferable. Do not mount non-shock isolated lights on a recoil producing weapon. It blows bulbs (which costs $$$)

Other than mounting a weaponlight to a railed handguard, you can get a Surefire 500 series weaponlight, which actually REPLACES the handguards. Here's a picture of Beavo451's Colt LE6920 with a Surefire 500 installed.



Manufacturers that build "weapongrade" lights:
Surefire
Pentagon
Night Ops/Blackhawk
Pelican
Streamlight
Insight Technologies

Specific lights I would recommend:
Surefire Scout, 500 series, 900 series, and 951
Pentagon dedicated weaponlights and L2
Night Ops Gladius/Falcata 9v/Falcata 6v
Streamlight M3X/TL3/TLR1
Insight Technologies SSL-1 and H2XTyphoon

Before we end our weaponlight discussion, let me touch on one more point. There are two types of lights, incandescent and LED. Incandescent lights need a shock-isolatd bezel, but typically have a higher output (lumens) at a cheaper price. However the LED lights do not need shock-isolated bezels, and are not fairly graded by "lumens." LEDs can have different properties, and some have a lower lumen grade but have a better "throw." This means the EFFECTIVE light on your target is better. In addition, they typically have a longer battery life, or at least taper off but still give "usable" light for a while.

[jwise]

GRIPS

Grips are mostly preference. Get the one you like. I have tried the standard A2 grip and like it alright. However after spending the better part of two days on a range, the gap where the hinge is on the under side of the triggerguard will start to give you a monster blister. If you are going to stick with the A2 grip, get a $2 "Gapper" to fill in that space. Well worth it in my opinion.

I like the Hogue grip, personally. I first tried one on an old Carbon 15 rifle, and fell in love! I now have one on three of my ARs, and have no plans to switch them out. They also require the Gapper to prevent blistering from extended range sessions.

This is my Patrol Rifle, setup with a Hogue grip:



I tried out the Tango Down Battlegrip on my LWRC shorty. It's the tan one pictured above. It's alright, and does not need a Gapper, but it cost more than the Hogue and I like it less.

I have heard great things about the Ergo grip. They have a few models, righty, and ambi, and then either hard, or "suregrip." I assume this means it is kind of rubbery. I plan to get one of these next, so I will withhold personal opinions until that time.

Magpul makes the MIAD that is completely configurable. It seems pretty nifty, but kinda steep if you want the "full" kit.

If you routinely wear gloves (warm ones, not shooting gloves) on patrol, I'd get a Magpul enhanced trigger guard. It opens up the triggerguard a little, giving you a bit more room.

Vertical Fore Grips

The major players in this market are Tango Down and Knights Armament. The TD grip has a space for a pressure pad, and both have storage space in the girp. (My tan LWRC shorty is sporting a TD VFG.)

Other options include the "Grip Pod", which is a VFG that has drop-down legs to become a bipod. Pretty neat, but pricey ($100.)

Surefire makes the 910 series of weaponlights which is actually a VFG/weaponlight in one. It's about $550.

Other than these, mostly you'll see 'el cheapo' UTG and Tapco VFGs.

STOCKS

There are PLENTY of options when it comes to stocks. Let's look at the historical evlolution of military stocks, then we'll look at current aftermarket stock choices.

A1 Stock

The original M16A1 came with a fixed stock that fit well into the role of a combat arm. It fit most people, and allowed the shooter to get a proper combat position on the stock, touching the tip of the nose to the charging handle to serve as a reference point. This provided a consistant "cheek weld." It is important that the shooter can face the target and bring up his rifle straight in front of him, which positions his body armor towards the threat, giving him maximum protection.

A2 Stock

When the Army Marksmanship Unit developed the M16A2 to win shooting competitions, they incorporated a longer "target" stock. This fixed stock is designed to be used while "bladed" to the target. The shooter does not throw the rifle up in front of him, but brings it up alongside his body and stands perpendicular to the target. This is no good on a combat arm, as this exposes the "armpit" of your body armor towards the threat. This stock (along with the entire rifle) is for target shooters, not warriors. If you have an A2 stock, shuck it! There are better options.

CAR stock

The original CAR stock was an aluminum two-position stock ("in" and "out.") This progressed to three, then to four positions. The current offerings are slimline plastic and usually have four positions. These are lighter than the M4 stocks, and collapse shorter.

M4 Stock

This stock has the sling swivel on the toe, and has "ribs" to increas its rigidity. It is usually a six position stock (determined by the buffer tube, not the stock) and is the collapsable stock that comes standard on most rifles.

Short fixed stocks

The "Sully Stock" and the RRA Entry stock are both similar to the A1 stock. Fixed, short, and allow the shooter to "square" himself to the target.

Magpul

Magpul makes several stocks.

The CTR is the one pictured above in tan. It is a solid locking collapsable stock that has sling options not found on the M4 stock. It can also be had with a rubber buttpad that keeps the stock from coming out of place while running and gunning.

The PRS stock from Magpul is for precision rigs, and has an adjustable comb, adjustable length of pull, and has some other features that are pretty neat. It's a fixed stock.

I'm not going to say much more about stocks, as they are mostly aesthetic, and are just a preference. They don't add to the reliability of the platform, or enhance the usefulness. I will say I like the way the CTR locks solid, like a fixed stock. The M4 stock does rattle, but is otherwise a quality stock in its own right, not needing an upgrade.

MAGAZINES

This is the possible weak point in the AR-15 rifle. I say "possible", because it doesn't HAVE to be weak, but oftentimes it is. The problem with AR-15 magazines, is that the magazine well (magwell) of the AR-15 rifle was not designed to feed from curved magazines, but from the straight 20rd mags used in the Vietnam era. When the 30rd mags came out, they had to have a very unique design. The top half is straight (in order to fit in the magwell), but the bottom is curved. This design (necessitated by the AR's magwell design) is not very good for smooth feeding from a large capacity box magazine.

Shooters today have three choices for a quality magazine that is sure to feed smoothly. The first is the original 20rd straight magazine (this does not include the Bushmaster 20rd curved mag.) The second option is a USGI 30rd magazine with a Magpul enhanced follower. All my 30rd USGI magazines have this upgrade, and it is remarkable how much smoother they feed/load with this follwer. This follower can be bought for about $2 and added to your current magazines, or you can buy magazines with this follower already installed (C-Products.) The third choice, is Magpul's P-Mag, which came out just before SHOT Show last year. I have four so far, and am thoroughly impressed. I won't go in to why this magazine is so far superior (interior continuous curve design), but rest assured, it is. And it is DURABLE in spades!

USGI mags include: Okay, Center, D&H, C Products, Bushmaster, Colt, Larsen, etc...

The ones to stay away from are: Promag, Orlite, Thermold, SA80 steel mags, any 40rd mag, etc...

In Summary: Stick with straight 20s, USGI 30s w/ Magpul followers, or P-Mags.

As always, thoroughly test all gear before you deploy with it. Don't buy new mags and take them into harm's way. Fully load them, shoot them, drop them free. If they won't do all three without malfunctions, don't use them.

**Notice I did not recommend, nor did I say to avoid the H&K "High Reliability" magazines. While it is probably the most elegantly made magazine for the AR-15, it has not been found to be durable. This comes from Pat Rogers, who has witnessed over 40 of them get used up and treated with the "hammer therapy." I don't care if you have them and love them, but TAKE CARE OF THEM. They aren't P-Mags, which you can toss off second floor roofs and run over with armored cars. At $50 a pop vs. $12 (USGI) or $14 (P-Mag), I can't recommend anyone to buy them.**

SLINGS

A rifle without a sling is like a handgun without a holster. Get one! Preferably one you can "wear", and won't let the rifle slip off your shoulder. These can be 3-point, 2-point, or single-point slings.

3-Point

A three-point sling is my personal favorite. It has a strap that runs the length of the rifle on one side, and then has a strap that forms a loop, which you put over your head and one shoulder. This allows the rifle to be worn haning down at an angle, on the "off" side so it doesn't get in the way of your sidearm. Three-point slings are often called "patrol slings", because they allow the shooter to let go of their weapon and walk naturally.

2-Point

A two-point sling just attaches to the front and back of the rifle. These are generally the ones that come with a rifle, and will fall off your shoulder. However, there are some advanced two-points that actually keep the rifle on you.

Single-Point

Single point slings attach to the rifle in only one place, usually at the back of the receiver. A single-point sling plate is usually required to give you something for the sling to clip into, but some of the aftermarket stocks (CTR) has sling point attachments as well. Basically, the sling is a loop, that goes over your head and shoulder and hangs the weapon straight down in front of you. The barrel usually ends up right between your legs. Hope you don't have to run somewhere! Better hold on to that rifle like your life depended on it! These are VERY popular with SWAT Teams, as it is simpler to get in and out of, and they usually aren't "patrolling" with their weapons. This is almost just a weapon retention sling.

My pick is the Spec-Ops Mamba 3-point sling. What can I say, I like it. I have four or so on my rifles.

However, this is such a preferential part of the system, I don't think for one minute that you should make my pick your pick. Figure out what you want, and go from there.

In summary: get a sling.

[jwise]

Originally Posted by Tonkatoyzz

Jwise,

this is an incredible about of information thank you. if you could have any AR. and any amount of things to put on it what kind and what would you put on there?

Hey, nice segue! It's like I planted the question myself. Let's keep going, shall we?

Here is the BIG CHART. It shows what all the different manufacturers include in their standard offerings, and what they offer as upgrades.



As you can see, there are a few "top tier" manufacturers, and then the rest.

I'll take this slowly, and go one at a time. But before we look at the individual makers, let's unpack a couple of those "features", and see if we even WANT them.

Staked Castle Nut

I am of the opinion that staking the castle nut does only one thing, break your stock wrench when you are trying to change stocks or add a sling attachment point (endplate.) Yes, my Sgt and Range Officer broke MY wrench trying to get his stupid Colt castle nut off. He did buy me a new wrench (a better one), but it was different enough that it wouldn't work with his "proprietary" Colt castle nut (Colt, go figure!)

I use a wrench, and torque it down tight. A loose castle nut will NOT make your gun fall apart. It would have to unscrew several FULL rotations before th endplate would come far enough off the back of the receiver to allow the entire extension tube to turn, thus releasing pressure on the rear take-down detent spring. And if pressure WAS released? SO? The pin could theoretically become "uncaptured" and fall out if you pushed on it. The simple point is, this is not a critical issue, and it causes more headaches than it helps. Use red loctite if you have to, but don't stake the darn thing!

Mil Spec Receiver Extension

"Receiver Extension" is a fancy word for "Buffer Tube." There are two sizes, Mil-Spec and Commercial. The top tier manufacturers use the Mil-Spec tube, the others use the comercial. It's not a big deal, until you decide to switch stocks (Magpul, VLTR, LMT SOPMOD, etc...) The high end stocks use the Mil-Spec diameter, the cheaper stocks fit the commercial.

Magpul makes the CTR in both, so I don't care. I have both sizes.

Black Insert

There are blue inserts and black inserts. This spec makes it seem that there is a difference between the two. The truth is, the color of the insert is the only difference. A blue insert is fine. Black simply is used as an identifier on Colts with the heavier spring installed and has no functional difference. The issue is a stronger extractor SPRING and possibly an extraction aid like a O-ring or D-fender type insert over the spring, not the insert. A black insert without the increased spring tension is worthless.

Now let's take each entry one at a time:

[jwise]

COLT MSRP: $1250*





Altogether, Colt puts out the rifle to beat. There is one minor issue you might want to know about before you buy your Colt.

Non-milspec FCG pins

Colt uses non-standard size Fire Control Group pins. This makes it impossible to switch trigger groups from a Colt to an LMT/RRA/CMMG/or anyone else. Colt is the ONLY manufacturer doing this. Most aftermarket triggers make both standard pins, and non-standard pins, so this isn’t much of an issue, but it would stink to go out and buy an aftermarket trigger only to find out it won’t fit.

Other than the political differences I have with Colt, I would gladly choose a Colt LE6920 to go into harm's way. The issue listed above should be ranked somewhere between minor and frivolous compared to the excellent product you would be getting by buying a Colt.
Here's some more pics:

M4 Feedramps:



Properly Staked Gas Key:



Barrel Markings:



"F" Marked FSB:



In summary: it's a BUY.

*****THANKS BEAVO451 FOR THE PICS OF YOUR COLT LE6920!!*****

*Price taken from my personal knowledge. One other problem with Colts, is that they bow at the altar of the Military, and only release LE guns every now and then when they have overruns. This makes the price fluctuate wildly. At times, LE6920s can be found for $1150, but don't count on it! Other times they can only be found for $1400 and UP!

[jwise]

please do not post, yet. Still under construction:

[jwise]

LMT MSRP: $1123*


Believe it or not, THIS is the best picture I can find of an LMT online.

Shockingly, LMT does not use taper pins on the FSB, they do not parkerize under the FSB, nor do they come with double heat shielded guards nor the "H" buffer.

As far as the buffer goes, who cares if it runs. I've never heard of people complaining that their LMT rifles don't run well without a buffer swap, so this doesn't bother me in the slightest.

The heat shielded handguards is (again) really just for full-auto, but LMT is of such high quality (and price) that I figured they would include them. Oh well...

However, it is the lack of taper pins that actually surprises me the most. I am shocked that LMT does not use the most proven method of fixing the FSB to the barrel. Instead, LMT uses STRAIGHT pins to attach the FSB. While this method has not caused any FSBs to come loose on LMT rifles (that I know of), it still leaves a blank on the chart. I don't think this should cause any great concern.

The parkerizing (as mentioned above) is really just a trivial matter that most will never realize. It's just one of those "attention to detail" matters.

In summary: it's a BUY.

*Price taken from their website by adding the cost of a complete lower and upper in M4 configuration with enhanced bolt. $1050 for standard rifle without enhanced bolt.

IF YOU HAVE CLOSEUP PICTURES OF AN LMT CARBINE, PLEASE PM ME WITH THE LINKS!

[jwise]

Noveske N4 MSRP: $1395*



14.5" Cold Hammer Forged Barrel, 1 in 7" twist, 5.56mm
--Made of Mil Spec M249 Machine Gun barrel steel, with heavy M249 Chrome Lining,
(appx. 2 times as thick as an M4 or M16)
--Smith Vortex Flash Suppressor
--Vltor Carbine buttstock
--Tango Down pistol grip
--Flip Up Rear Sight
--One 30 rd mag included


The Noveske N4 hits on all cylinders! The one blank on the chart is the black insert. While this looks surprising, the black insert is not the only way to get a carbine to extract. O-rings, Defender Rings, and double springs also work. Noveske's bolt uses a Viton-2 O-Ring over the extractor spring. This should be considered a "check" for that blank, but the chart is limited.

The price is the highest of the group, but it comes standard with the most accessories. The Tango Down Battlegrip is $30 compared to a $5 A2 grip, the Vortex FH is $50 compared to a $5 A2 birdcage, the rear sight (no brand named) is easily worth $50, and the VLTOR modstock goes for about $50 more than a standard M4 stock. That's $180 worth of accessories you are getting included (whether you wanted them or not!?)

In summary: it's a BUY.

*Price taken from their website

IF YOU HAVE CLOSEUP PICTURES OF A NOVESKE N4, PLEASE PM ME WITH THE LINKS!

[jwise]

CMMG MSRP: $815*


But it will not come with a carry handle if you buy it in two parts.



On the chart, CMMG is to the right of both S&W and Sabre Defense, but I don't know why. I personally consider the manufacturer that provides the bells and whistles as an upgrade option to be "higher" than those which do not.

CMMG's base rifle comes complete with a standard bolt, which is fine for 99% of users. In fact, this is the bolt that is in my rifle. However, if you want the "bells and whistles", and you don't mind parting with another $30, then you can upgrade to the EGRESS bolt, which has the following:

-Extractor and ejector springs are chrome silicon
-Single coil gas ring
-E-Ring and Mil-Spec Black Extractor Insert

This checks off most of the blanks on the chart except for the "properly staked gas key." Well, it's true, CMMG FORMERLY did not use the "proper" technique set out in Colt's TDP, but let's take a look. Here is MY bolt carrier which was bought circa 2005:



Notice the screws (circled in red) have been "set" by the slash cuts. That is not the "correct" way to do it, but it had worked for me. I would like for it to be "properly" staked, but like LMT's use of straight pins, CMMG does not suffer from any negative reputation for gas keys coming loose.

CMMG currently ships all carriers with properly staked gas keys. Warpig8654 has provided this picture of a recently purchased CMMG carrier which is properly staked:



In addition, I checked with Jeff at CMMG to be sure this was now standard. He informed me that not only is this standard, but he also advised that all of their bolts are shot peened and MP tested. Their barrels are certified rifle grade mil spec 4150 steel and are MP tested. They are also going to implement staking the castle nut, but haven't started yet. In addition, they now use a 5 position mil spec receiver extensions on all builds, just like Colt does.

As for the buffer, just like Noveske, if it works it works. CMMG offers the "Standard" buffer at no charge, and only adds $10 if you want the "H" buffer, or "H2" buffer. (If you want the Tungsten buffer it's a bit more.)

One really neat thing about the CMMG, is that the M16 bolt carrier is a free option. Just click it in the drop-down menu and it's yours. I like this carrier, because it's slightly heavier, delaying the unlocking just a tad bit. It's the correct carrier, which Colt now includes in the LE6920. It does NOT make your rifle somehow "illegal" for having an M16 part in the rifle. That is a myth.

Here's the CMMG M16 carrier:



Check out the M4 feedramps on the CMMG. Beautiful!



And of course the firing pin is fully shrouded:



In Summary: it's a BUY!

*Price taken from their website by adding the price of a complete lower and upper in M4 configuration

[jwise]

I've got more, please don't post yet.

[jwise]

S&W M&P15 MSRP: $989*



This rifle is a fine rifle in most aspects, and will serve its user well. Let me speak to just a few issues:

The barrel is not offered in 1/7 twist, and it does not come with M4 feedramps. While the manufacturer claims it comes with a F-marked FSB, reports indicate this is not true. No parkerizing under the FSB, no double heat-shielded handguards, but most importantly, no lifetime warranty.

While nearly all of the above issues are forgivable, the lack of a warranty makes this option extremely distasteful. I'd like to think S&W will stand behind the products they market (not sure they actually MAKE this rifle), but they do not have a written warranty and I have no knowledge of personal experience with returns.

In Summary: it's a buy, but a guarded buy.

*Price taken from Talon Arms, MSRP was actually $1300

IF YOU HAVE CLOSEUP PICTURES OF A S&W M&P15 CARBINE, PLEASE PM ME WITH THE LINKS!