Upgrades you need.

[nikon777]

The "H" buffer is heavier than the standard car buffer. The extra weight slows down the cycling of the weapon, thus making the action smoother and more reliable.

The O-ring increases the pressure the extractor exhibits on the rim of the casing, thus increasing extraction reliability.

[street cruiser]

I have heard that environmental conditions determine how much lubrication one should use on the AR. More humid, wet conditions require more oil and drier, dustier conditions require somewhat less oil. Since I live in Alabama my rifle gets a liberal amount of oil.

[T.J.]

Originally Posted by nikon777

The "H" buffer is heavier than the standard car buffer. The extra weight slows down the cycling of the weapon, thus making the action smoother and more reliable.

The O-ring increases the pressure the extractor exhibits on the rim of the casing, thus increasing extraction reliability.

you didnt specify weather or not the O rings where used in place of or in conjunction with the spring.

I am also new to ARs i just picked up a DPMS a few days ago for $500 and have not yet gotten to go shoot it but have been scrubbing it clean with hopps #9 and re lubricating it with CLP i dont believe that the previous owner every cleaned it as the bolt was filthy it looks like they just kept spraying some type of lube on it. the firing pin was caked with carbon.

as of right now i have a small list of things that i am planning on changing a piece at time as my wife keeps me on a pretty tight budget (retirement account, bills and church tides come before hobbies and interest thank god one of us has a level head or i would be gun rich now and broker than sh!t in my golden year) we allow each other $100 a month for hobbies and interest and it appears that each piece that i want to change will be costing me around $200

upgrades
1) A3 upper with detachable carry handle, $235 +shipping
2) milled aluminum railed hand guards (im looking at the Danial Defense,
Troy and sure fire) $200-$350 +shipping depending on which one i go with
3) chromed 16" barrel $180 + shipping
4)eotec sight (would love the ACOG but at almost $1100 for the one im looking at i just cant justify it) $400 +shipping
5) two stage match trigger
6) and know that i know the difference of the buffers a H buffer

my deal included a DPMS ar 15 carbine model with 11.5" barrel with a 5.5" permanently affixed flash hider and an A2 upper (barrel and chamber is chromolly)
2 USGI mags,
a carry bag
3 point sling
50 rounds of magtech .223 ammo

all in all i feel like i got a pretty good deal.

[120mm]

Originally Posted by street cruiser

I have heard that environmental conditions determine how much lubrication one should use on the AR. More humid, wet conditions require more oil and drier, dustier conditions require somewhat less oil. Since I live in Alabama my rifle gets a liberal amount of oil.

If you're talking about the external parts of your weapon, you are right. If you're talking internals, you're not right. In drier dustier conditions, you need more oil to lubricate parts, assist in cooling parts, and helping lift dirt and grit from between low clearance moving parts.

The "run it dry" or "just a little will do" myths are just that, MYTHS. (Myths that were initiated and continue to be propagated by the US Army, obtw...) Reliability studies show that liberal (defined as the maximum oil that will adhere to a part without sagging and dripping off) lubrication is best for dry and dusty conditions.

See www.m4carbine.net for more details.

[bigun]

Originally Posted by T.J.

you didnt specify weather or not the O rings where used in place of or in conjunction with the spring.

I am also new to ARs i just picked up a DPMS a few days ago for $500 and have not yet gotten to go shoot it but have been scrubbing it clean with hopps #9 and re lubricating it with CLP i dont believe that the previous owner every cleaned it as the bolt was filthy it looks like they just kept spraying some type of lube on it. the firing pin was caked with carbon.

as of right now i have a small list of things that i am planning on changing a piece at time as my wife keeps me on a pretty tight budget (retirement account, bills and church tides come before hobbies and interest thank god one of us has a level head or i would be gun rich now and broker than sh!t in my golden year) we allow each other $100 a month for hobbies and interest and it appears that each piece that i want to change will be costing me around $200

upgrades
1) A3 upper with detachable carry handle, $235 +shipping
2) milled aluminum railed hand guards (im looking at the Danial Defense,
Troy and sure fire) $200-$350 +shipping depending on which one i go with
3) chromed 16" barrel $180 + shipping
4)eotec sight (would love the ACOG but at almost $1100 for the one im looking at i just cant justify it) $400 +shipping
5) two stage match trigger
6) and know that i know the difference of the buffers a H buffer

my deal included a DPMS ar 15 carbine model with 11.5" barrel with a 5.5" permanently affixed flash hider and an A2 upper (barrel and chamber is chromolly)
2 USGI mags,
a carry bag
3 point sling
50 rounds of magtech .223 ammo

all in all i feel like i got a pretty good deal.

Dont forget the ear plugs and muffs. Those 11" uppers will rattle your fillings, or dentures as the case may be and tend to be pretty ferocious on the muzzle flash also. Seriously the 11" uppers benifit way more from the H buffer and O-ring than about any of them because the short gas system tends to make them operate violently. Oh the O-ring sets over the top of the spring and helps to keep constant pressure on the case. I wont run a carbine without 1.

[T.J.]

thanks

[03RangerXLT]

Just a tier 2 upgrade suggestion (not really important, but a good idea): Anti walk/rotation pin kit for the lower reciever.

[hardwarz]

Originally Posted by nikon777

With all the talk of Colt and LMT, there are a few things I recommend you do to your AR to bring it "up to par" so to speak. I personally don't own a Colt or LMT, but find these upgrades very necessary for reliability in a SHTF rifle.

Define SHTF. Terrorists? BG during a B&E? Katrina and the wave? Zombies?

Originally Posted by nikon777

1. Properly stake the gas key, and castle nut.

Checking proper stake, ok. I agree.

Originally Posted by nikon777

2. Upgrade to a "H" buffer in your stock.

Why? Truthfully, if your system is running fine (and it is a "system") then why mess with it?

Originally Posted by nikon777

3. Upgrade the extractor to some type of "o-ring" system.

Again, why? I've had the O-ring put too much force and actually start to rub the extrator raw where it rubs up against the inside of the BCG. If it works 100% of the time, don't mess with it. If you're having failours dealing with your extractor, then start looking into this area and make upgrades accordingly.

Originally Posted by nikon777

4. Make sure your bolt/BCG is MP tested, & shot peened for strength.

3rd Why? My factory BCG is 100%. Chrome might be nice for the fact of cleaning, but other than that, having it tested doesn't mean it won't fail.

Originally Posted by nikon777

5. Run her wet(no perverted comments).

Wet? Might be too much. Too much oil will have dirt/sand/etc stick to it. Lightly coated should be more accurate.

Listen up everyone, if your weapon is 100% and you have faith in it, leave it alone.

Never add a bunch of upgrades during a weekend and then go shooting. One or maybe 2 upgrades per shoting session. Gain trust in each upgrade instead of a bunch of upgrades that you'll have to troubleshoot and lose faith in your weapon.

Run rounds through your weapon. Do you trust her? Upgrade only when necessary or when a specific job is at hand. (ie: heading to Iraq as a contractor or heading to the mountains for an extended stay.)

Everyone's main upgrades should be stocking up on ammunition and GOOD mags. Number your mags, make notes of which ones have problems and get rid of them.

Hardwarz

[zipgun]

Originally Posted by hardwarz

Define SHTF. Terrorists? BG during a B&E? Katrina and the wave? Zombies?


Checking proper stake, ok. I agree.


Why? Truthfully, if your system is running fine (and it is a "system") then why mess with it?


Again, why? I've had the O-ring put too much force and actually start to rub the extrator raw where it rubs up against the inside of the BCG. If it works 100% of the time, don't mess with it. If you're having failours dealing with your extractor, then start looking into this area and make upgrades accordingly.


3rd Why? My factory BCG is 100%. Chrome might be nice for the fact of cleaning, but other than that, having it tested doesn't mean it won't fail.


Wet? Might be too much. Too much oil will have dirt/sand/etc stick to it. Lightly coated should be more accurate.

Listen up everyone, if your weapon is 100% and you have faith in it, leave it alone.

Never add a bunch of upgrades during a weekend and then go shooting. One or maybe 2 upgrades per shoting session. Gain trust in each upgrade instead of a bunch of upgrades that you'll have to troubleshoot and lose faith in your weapon.

Run rounds through your weapon. Do you trust her? Upgrade only when necessary or when a specific job is at hand. (ie: heading to Iraq as a contractor or heading to the mountains for an extended stay.)

Everyone's main upgrades should be stocking up on ammunition and GOOD mags. Number your mags, make notes of which ones have problems and get rid of them.

Hardwarz

+1 Best advice yet!

[Badshot]

Originally Posted by T.J.

upgrades
1) A3 upper with detachable carry handle, $235 +shipping
2) milled aluminum railed hand guards (im looking at the Danial Defense,
Troy and sure fire) $200-$350 +shipping depending on which one i go with
3) chromed 16" barrel $180 + shipping
4)eotec sight (would love the ACOG but at almost $1100 for the one im looking at i just cant justify it) $400 +shipping
5) two stage match trigger
6) and know that i know the difference of the buffers a H buffer

1. You might just flat out consider a complete upper, the price difference is not very significant. Check with Pete at AR15SALES.COM

2. You might consider adding Midwest Industries to your short list for the railed free float forend - most of their stuff is sub $230 and doesn't require that the FSP and flashhider/muzzle break be removed, just cut the Delta ring off and mount. Locks solid and provides a monolithic (contiguous) rail from the upper to the end of the forend.

3. see #1

4. EOTech rocks and you can do better than $400 if you don't mind it being used.. check ARFCOM EE, you can save about $100-$200 depending on the model.

5. RRA makes a great NM 2 Stag trigger, again ARFCOM EE for much better than web site MSRP.

Hope there's some value there. And that was a screaming good deal by the way.