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Building my first AR

This is a discussion on Building my first AR within the AR Talk forums, part of the Long Gun Talk category; Originally Posted by Evolved1 $1916.64 is a little pricey for that setup. Is that parts or are they charging you labor to assemble the rifle? ...

Old 07-07-2012, 02:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Evolved1 View Post
$1916.64 is a little pricey for that setup. Is that parts or are they charging you labor to assemble the rifle?

Troy makes some nice parts. The shop did recommend nice parts, not "top shelf", but very good parts. Honestly, I think you could get more for your money.

I figure they are marking up the parts a bit to cover the labor of building the rifle. I figure the place has to make a profit somewhere. Plus it will be under warranty from them if they put it together rather than me just buying the parts and attempting to do it all myself.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:09 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bonehead View Post
wow that's a long rail!

I was teasing about ' being feet and " being inches. he said a 9 foot to 11 foot rail.

and yeah I think the rifles look goofy with the long rail like that. they put that grip out there and walk around with the support arm extended and locked at the elbow.

seems weird to me but what do I know...
I run 18" rail and grab it at about 15"-16" spot. I would hold at the very front but the comp would cook my hand off. I also am 6'3". I don't lock my elbow but I hold as far forward as is comfortable. I use to use a vertical fore grip and it felt really comfortable but I shot a lot slower and less accurately.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bonehead View Post
wow that's a long rail!
Hahahahaha!!!! I got the joke!!!! Could you imagine all the hardware you could put on that!!!!
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:00 PM   #14
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LPK=Lower Parts Kit.

It is everything you need to finish off a stripped lower.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:51 PM   #15
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Oops. I thought I had included the link to Rob S's chart in my original post.


I'm guessing by competition you are thinking bullseye/national match type shooting rather than running and gunning (three gun) type shooting. So the heavy barrel makes sense then.

Personally I like a long rail on my AR also. I run a LMT MRP with 14" rail gripping it around 12"" out. From the bench or prone it'll also let you mount a bipod further forward. Another advantage is the ability to move the front sight back in order to mount a surefire X300 at the 12:00 position. It's heavy though...

Co witnessing your sights puts them in the same line of sight as the optic to be able to use the irons is the scope fails. The main reason to use the normal height sights is due to the ergonomics of an AR. The recoil buffer tube being in in line with the barrel puts your focal plane higher over the bore than other rifles. So you'll still want the normal height irons. If your goal is match style shooting you may be even better off with a good old carry handle for the adjustable windage/elevation. or a chopped version of the same. The Troy micros are really for other weapon systems with raised rails, such as the SCAR.

I don't know about a heavy buffer increasing accuracy, but seeing as most manufacturers AR barrels are over gassed, they usually increase dependability. It's the same reason a full auto carrier is preferred over the semi. A little more weight increases dwell time giving the case a chance to shrink a little more before the bolt unlocks. Usually you'll want to experiment with the different weight buffers to see what will run most efficiently in your rifle.

Since you need to pin your compensator I'll once again nudge you toward the Battlecomp rather than the Troy. It's probably the best all around compensator on the market taking into consideration performance, muzzle flash, & concussion. Battle Comp Enterprises, LLC | Slots Matter

If you stick with the Stag barrel, make sure your gunsmith checks/reams the chamber for 5.56NATO. I think you'd be better off going with something like a White Oak or Noveske stainless for a precision rig though. http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=sho...ry=ar15barrels

Originally Posted by TripStar View Post
Thanks for info guys...

I will be mainly using this rifle for recreation purposes while I practice to enter some competitions. I want the best accuracy possible. The shop manager told me that the further the sights are separated the more accurate the gun will be at longer range. Hence the longer rail set up. They also told me a heavier buffer increases accuracy a tad.

You don't want the Troy micro sights. They won't co-witness with any optic that you may add down the line.

Does co-witness mean I can use the sights when looking through the optics in case optics fail?

At first I wont be able to afford optics anyways because I figured what I'm gonna want will cost nearly as much as the rifle itself.

We discussed what I was going to do when i added optics down the road, and if i understand correctly, co-witnessing came up. However the shop did say I could get a kit that would allow me to mount my micro sights off to the side. This would allow me to use both optics for longer range and sights (rifle held on an angle) for shorter range. I've always liked sights with tritium inserts rather than the plain iron sight.

I'd recommend buying the LPK from G&R Tactical

What is LPK? Not really following you there... G&R Tactical sells BCM lowers but they are out of stock. What did u mean by LPK?

Take a look at "the Chart"

Is there a link to this "chart"?

Why are you pinning the muzzle break? For compliance reasons?

Yes. I'm sure this is because the rifle has to be CT compliant.

thanks for help!!!
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