Which press should I get? NOOB

[Liquid Rhino]

I can't verify the link here at work, but is this what you're referring to, AZXD?
Hornady Modified Ejector Wire Plans & Pics

Slaytex: That should cover it, except for a reloading data manual & this as you listed (Link):
- Cutter and Lock Stud (Case Length Gage and Shellholder sold separately)

There are various quality reloading manuals available, and all pretty much explain the general process, but the loads they suggest are usually tied to their own brand of bullets, so pick the one that makes the most sense for you. Some popular ones are the Speer #13 or #14, Hornady 7th Edition, Nssler or Sierra Manuals. Sierra also publishes their loads as PDF's (they even have an AR15-specific .223 Load guide PDF) and there are a wealth of websites that keep load data available for free.

Hope this helps.

[scooterj]

Originally Posted by Slaytex

Kit includes:
Press
Auto-Prime
11 Auto-Prime Shellholders
Chamfer tool
Primer pocket cleaner
2 oz case lube
Cutter and Lock Stud (Case Length Gage and Shellholder sold separately)
Powder scale
Powder measure
Powder funnel

Anything worng with this stuff that it comes with?
Thanks.

The Lee scale is only good for 100 grains. I suggest you get a better scale. You will have the need for weighing more than 100gr.
Any of the good beam scales will do the job, but a nice digital will really speed thigs up.

[Liquid Rhino]

Scooterj, just curious as I too am a newbie at reloading.. Granted, a higher end scale is always a good investment, but I don't see why the included scale in the kit wouldn't serve Slaytex's purpose as he mentioned he was sticking primarily to .223 and powder for that generally stays within the 24-28gr range and projectiles within the 40-85gr range. But again, I'm just learning. Measuring complete cartridges, perhaps?

[Slaytex]

Originally Posted by Liquid Rhino

I can't verify the link here at work, but is this what you're referring to, AZXD?
Hornady Modified Ejector Wire Plans & Pics

Slaytex: That should cover it, except for a reloading data manual & this as you listed (Link):
- Cutter and Lock Stud (Case Length Gage and Shellholder sold separately)

There are various quality reloading manuals available, and all pretty much explain the general process, but the loads they suggest are usually tied to their own brand of bullets, so pick the one that makes the most sense for you. Some popular ones are the Speer #13 or #14, Hornady 7th Edition, Nssler or Sierra Manuals. Sierra also publishes their loads as PDF's (they even have an AR15-specific .223 Load guide PDF) and there are a wealth of websites that keep load data available for free.

Hope this helps.

Awesome, thanks for the resources. I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I place an order.
Thanks a ton guys.

[EricCartmann]

Originally Posted by AZXD

I ran across a picture somewhere (sorry no clue where) of a guy who made a replacement wire with a little more bend in it, or something, so he can use the LEE crimp die. Ya might want to experiment some with the idea.

Thanks for the heads up. But even with a modified ejector wire, I still think the Lee Factory Crimp Die will not work.

Problem is the Lee FCD takes up a lot of surface area, and if you look at one of the pics that LiquidRhino provided in his link, you can see that there is still not enough room for the Lee FCD to work as it will hit even a modified ejector wire. Right now if I want a Factory Crimp, I have to take out my powder check in station 4 and put the Lee FCD in station 4.

I am running into the same problems everyone else eventually found out, that the Hornady LNL is not a true 5 station press, only a 4 station press (if you factor in all calibers and all dies).

[Liquid Rhino]

Eric, quick offhand question (not to jack the thread) - Does .223 in an AR need a factory crimp (assuming only for cannelured)? Being as though I only have a Hornady Die set, is the .223 seating die able to be set for crimp/no crimp just as the pistol caliber sets, or would I need a separate die? I'd hate to have to spend more dough on this already...

[scooterj]

Originally Posted by Liquid Rhino

Scooterj, just curious as I too am a newbie at reloading.. Granted, a higher end scale is always a good investment, but I don't see why the included scale in the kit wouldn't serve Slaytex's purpose as he mentioned he was sticking primarily to .223 and powder for that generally stays within the 24-28gr range and projectiles within the 40-85gr range. But again, I'm just learning. Measuring complete cartridges, perhaps?

The Lee scale will work fine for individual powder, bullet or case measurement, but is quite busy and hard to read in the .1 -.9 gr range.
If you are going to try to get the most accuracy from the .223, you'll want to weigh the loaded rounds and keep them within a couple tenths of a grain. For this the 100gr limit is not nearly enough.

[Liquid Rhino]

Oh, that makes sense! Cool thanks!

[EricCartmann]

Originally Posted by Liquid Rhino

Eric, quick offhand question (not to jack the thread) - Does .223 in an AR need a factory crimp (assuming only for cannelured)? Being as though I only have a Hornady Die set, is the .223 seating die able to be set for crimp/no crimp just as the pistol caliber sets, or would I need a separate die? I'd hate to have to spend more dough on this already...

So far I have only loaded Sierra Match Kings HPBT and Winchester military FMJ's with cannelure and I have found niether needs a crimp. Meaning accuracy and FPS is the same with crimp or without.

I also found .308 military FMJ also does not need a crimp either, but a crimp does seem to help a little with 3.08 SMK's.

The Lee factory crimp die is only $10, so it will not hurt your pocket book that much.

[Slaytex]

Updated:
I just ordered all the press kit, the 3 dies and the length gauge tool. I'll probably get the raw materials later this month as I get more money in.

Thanks again for all the help.