Getting Started Reloading

[Reno82]

I store my ammo in army ammo steel storage boxes. They have a rubber seal around the top and if it's good for the army then it's good for me. Mass storage of the same reload with all the information to reproduce it in the box on a label. Good luck.

[Bearcreek]

I am new at reloading and have recently got a Dillon 550. I reload 9mm and .45ACP. WOW! I love the ability to lessen my recoil and increase my accuracy over factory ammo. I have found only 1 type of brass I cannot use for reloading my .45. The brass doesn't flare enough and I shave the projectiles along with chambering issues of being too long overall. Otherwise, I am at a 55% savings on my .45 and I haven't figured cost saving on 9mm yet. Thanks!

[fredj338]

Originally Posted by isyer

I started reloading after 15 years of doing other things and now I'm into IDPA and USPSA and reloading more. The question is this: What is the best way to store reloaded ammo? (storage ammo box for each bullet or in mass storage) one bag for 9mm, one for .40 and another for .45. Is putting them in mass asking for trouble?................. Thanks isyer

I use a mix of the plastic ammo boxes & just bulk them in 500rd lots. I keep ammo in my loading cabinet w/ a desic. pack. Ammo cans are fine too, but even the 30cal cans are too big for my needs. I don;t want to tote 1200rds out just to shoot 100.

[brianmat]

I'm getting pretty close to hitting the point of "paralysis by analysis" as a beginner from the reloading side.

After looking at several forums, blogs, and articles it seems the Kempf kit is really the best beginner set out there.

I've priced an almost full setup for 9mm and .380 with a tumbler, auto disk riser, micro disk, and the safety prime/auto disk pro upgrades at $310 plus shipping.

That still leaves me with calipers and scale to buy.

The problem I am having now is trying to use the reloading spreadsheet from GlockTalk. I'm trying to locate the best priced vendors for both bullets/powder and brass. I am assuming that this is like everything else where there are a couple "best of breed" vendors. Think of it like the Newegg experience for people new to computer parts.

That being said, what I am looking for is some paper hunting rounds for my XD9, Sigma 9, and girlfriend's Sig Pro.

What's the best "bang for the buck" vendor out there? I finally ended up throwing my arms up in the air due to many poor eCommerce designs (hello Natchez) and flaky sites (hello Midway with your asp.net errors).

Should I just continue to fight with the Midway site or might I be better served by another vendor?

Thanks for the insight and a great board.

[Reno82]

Try powdervalleyinc.com.... great bullets prices for 9mm.. but out of stock a lot of the times. Haven't bought the powder there yet. Primer and power I buy from Sportsmanwarehouse... seems to be as the same price as the internet. Good luck reloading.

[EricCartmann]

Some good reloading videos

Case Preparation:

1) Clean Dirty Brass (tumbling #1, 2-4 hours)
2) Resize and Deprime Brass
3) Remove Case Lube (tumbling #2, half hour)
4) Swage Brass (if applicable) - military brass the primers are crimped, this removes the crimp
and makes the priming hole bigger so you can properly re-prime
5) Clean Primer Pocket
6) Trim Brass to specified length - using cutter
7) Chamfer- this takes the sharp edges off the trim
Verify Brass Length

video 1: YouTube - .223 Case Preparation - Part 1
video 2: YouTube - .223 Case Preparation - Part 2

Then you would move onto the progressive press such as a Dillon 650 or Hornady Lock-N-Load to do
your:
9) Prime the case
10) Charge Case (verify weight every 10 charges)
11) Seat Bullet
12) Crimp Bullet (verify overall length "OAL" of complete round when done)

video3: YouTube - Reloading with a Dillon RL 500B Part 4


I also like this video. Shows the Giraud Case trimmer in action. It trims and chamfers at the same time. Probably the fastest way to trim cases.

video4: YouTube - Giraud Tool Company Power Trimmer

[EricCartmann]

This review is what sold my on the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP press. That and the fact that Hornady gives you 1000 free bullets with the purchase of the press

I bought one over a year ago and love it!
Here's the article that convinced me:
Don't Drink the Blue Kool Aid
(Formerly titled: "I Once was Blue, But Now I'm Seeing Red")
This is a work in progress!
Introduction
Single stage press
If you've been shooting long enough, chances are you've heard about reloading. Many folks fool themslves into thinking they can get along without it because they only shoot very inexpensive cartridges like 9mm or .223, or perhaps because they simply don't do enough shooting to justify it. Eventually, however, you'll start shooting competively or you'll buy an oddly-chambered military surplus rifle or you'll begin hunting with the latest $3/round ultra-ne-plus-magnum cartridge. Once this point comes (and it's inevitable) you'll have to call upon the expertise of others for advice in how to start reloading. It is at precisely this point that you become vulnerable.
If your interests lie in rifle cartridges, you will almost always be gently guided toward the slow and steady world of the single-stage reloading press. Whether it be green, red, orange or otherwise, there are few mistakes to be made when buying a single-stage press (although I do have my own preferences). The operation of these presses is simple. A removeable shellholder, fitting the rim of the cartidge to be reloaded, is installed in the ram of the press. A single die then fits in the top of the press. The reloader will first run each case, one at a time, through a resizing die. Each cartridge is then separetely primed, often with a hand-held priming tool, and then subsequently charged with gunpowder thrown from a stand-alone powder measure. The newly charged cases then return to the single-stage press, which has now been fitted with a seating die, to have bullets seated and crimped, yielding completed cartridges.
Progressive Reloading
Star Progressive press
While there are those who advocate loading handgun cartridges in this way (just as there are those who advocate mowing grass with nail clippers), the consensus among reloaders is that handgun cartridges require a progressive press. A progressive press allows three to five dies to be installed in the press at once, along with an attached powder measure. On the ram of the press is a shellholder which holds between three and five cases. When the press is cycled, each case in the press is then run through a separate stage in the reloading process (i.e., sizing, priming, belling of the case mouth, charging with powder, etc.). The shell plate is then turned, ejecting a completed round, while the operator puts an empty case into the press's first station and places a bullet on the mouth of the case about to go through the seating die. In this way every pull of the handle from a progressive press results in a loaded cartridge.

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP
The progressive press we know today began with the Star Progressive reloading press in 1931. Modern progressive reloaders still use features and ideas first developed on the Star, which was commercially produced until the late 1990s. Since the Star, many companies have designed and marketed progressive reloaders, all with varying degrees of success: Dillon Precision's RL550B is the wildly successful de-facto standard in progressives, while RCBS's now-discontinued Green Machine progressive press is so troublesome that, rumor has it, when RCBS receives one for repair it is promptly destroyed (eliminating future warranty claims) and replaced with RCBS's newer and better performing Pro 2000. Lee Precision is another important player in the progressive reloading scene with their Load Master and Pro 1000 presses. Finally, and most importantly, Hornady has a progressive press called the Lock-N-Load AP, of which you're sure to hear much more.

Mike Dillon Owns Enough Machineguns Already
Dillon RL550B
Among this vast and varied field of candidates, one would think that a prospective reloader would have a difficult time selecting which progressive press to buy. Strangely, however, this is rately true. Simply visit any Internet gun forum and ask which progressive to buy, and the response will be deafening: DILLON (never mind that 19 out of 20 respondents have never used any progressive other than a Dillon).

Dillon's original Rapid-Load 1000 (a Star derivative)
Dillon Precision's current line up includes the semi-progressive RL550B (by semi-progressive it is meant that the shellplate must be turned manually, as opposed to other "automatic indexing" progressives where the shellplate turns automatically), the fully-progressive XL650, the scaled-down Square Deal B, and the commercial grade Super 1050. Dillon's overwhelming popularity is due primarily to their laudable but over-the-top "No BS" warranty. Dillon Precision has been known to replace presses lost in house fires under this warranty policy. Beyond this, there is very little to justify the tremendous buzz Dillon has in reloading circles. This is not to say that Dillon presses are not durable and dependable presses (they are), but their reputation as being the only presses worth considering is wholly undeserved. Dillon's popularity is a result of a fierce cult-like following, an excellent warranty, and an aggressive marketing machine which churns out monthly catalogs to every Dillon customer featuring the exact same products month after month with the only change being the front cover, which features female models who, while attractive, are very rarely "cover girl" material. The workmanship and design of their presses play only a secondary role in their popularity. At the receiving end of this success is a man named Mike Dillon. Supposedly Mr. Dillon once worked for the Star Machine Works (from which he borrowed many of the designs found on his presses--Dillon's original Rapid-Load 1000 was very similar to the Star design), but nowadays he spends his time flying jet aircraft and enjoying an obscenely large machinegun collection (as seen on TV's "American Shooter"). Should you ever find yourself tempted to buy a Dillon Precision press, ask yourself this: doesn't Mike Dillon already have enough machineguns? The answer is yes, Mike Dillon already has enough machineguns; but that's not the only reason you should consider a different progressive presses. What follows is a critical comparison of the Dillon Precision RL550B progressive press with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Auto Progressive.
Throwing Charges at Dillon
See how Dillon's measure is a reimplementation of a 70 year old design
The RL550B (hereafter "550") is the flagship product of the Dillon line. The top portion of this semi-progressive press, in which the dies are mounted, is removeable. This removeable toolhead allows the user to mount and adjust three Dillon dies (a sizing die, seating die, and crimping die) and powder measure. The idea is that these toolheads can be quickly swapped out when converting the press from loading one caliber to another. Unfortunately, the changeout is tedious due to Dillon's unwieldy and antiquated powder measure. The Dillon sliding-bar type powder measure is truly regressive when compared to the rotary type powder measures of other manufacturers. Most annonyingly, the Dillon powder measure attaches to each toolhead with two finely-threaded allen-head screws which must be screwed all the way out (perhaps an inch) and then all the back in when moving it from one toolhead to another. This is further complicated by the fact that the screws are difficult to reach due to their placement on the measure, and hence time-consuming and frustrating to manipulate. Most problematic, however, is the Dillon powder measure's adjustment system. To adjust the charge thrown by the measure, you have to rotate a small hex nut at the end of the measure's "powder bar". There is no indication of the current charge, so when changing loads or powder types one is forced to go through a lengthy session of dialing in the powder measure. These "oversights" only conspire to sell more Dillon powder measures. Unlike other manufacteres who design their powder measure systems to be as versatile as possible, Dillon's powder measure is difficult to manipulate in order to encourage Dillon owners to buy a separate $55 powder measure to leave installed and adjusted on each and every toolhead! The Dillon powder measure debacle is exacerbated by the irksome "failsafe" rod which resets the powder measure on the downstroke of each handle pull. This rod makes changing toolheads difficult, and also relies on a small wingnut to properly reset the measure. After time, this wingnut can develop a tendency to rotate on the rod during a loading session, potentially to the point where the powder measure doesn't cycle completely (resulting in squib loads).
Lovin' that Lock-N-Load

[EricCartmann]

continue

It was a great dissatisfaction with the Dillon powder measure that led the author to acquire his Hornady Lock-N-Load AP (hereafter LnL), so it's with the LnL's superior powder measure that we will begin. The LnL uses a conventional rotary drum type powder measure with a mechanical linkage that looks complicated, but actually has fewer moving parts than Dillon's. On a purely subjective note, the Hornady's powder measure makes operating the LnL feel far smoother than the often jerky clunking of the Dillon measure. As has been previously discussed, the Dillon powder measure has no means by which to record a powder setting. The LnL powder measure gives you two options. First, unlike the Dillon powder bars which are difficult to remove, the LnL measure's metering insert snaps in and out of the measure. In this way, you can buy one metering insert for each load you shoot and easily snap them in and out of the powder measure. "How is this different from buying multiple Dillon powder measures?" you ask. The LnL metering inserts cost less than $10, compared to Dillon's $55 measure. An even better alternative is Hornady's micrometer metering inserts (one is used for pistol sized charges, another for rifle) at $25 each. This inserts easily snap in and out of the measure and feature a micrometer adjustment that allows the reloader to easily record and and reset loads. Another advantage of the snap-in LnL powder measure system is that the measure can be drained by snapping out the metering insert and snapping in a drain adapter. Unlike draining the Dillon measure, which involves inverting it and then shaking or manually cycling it, draining the Hornady measure is completely painless. The Hornady measure is also much easier to move around. If you recall, moving the Dillon measure from one toolhead to another can be very tedious. To move the Hornady measure, one simply unhooks a spring, loosens an allen-head screw about 1/4 turn, lifts the measure off the old powder die and onto the new powder die, then rehooks the spring and tightens the screw. The removeable inserts also mean you can use one powder measure to throw loads for everything from .32 S&W to big magnum rifles. Finally, Hornady makes a powder measure with an aluminum hopper and brass internals (suitable for use with blackpowder) that can be used on the LnL. The 550 has no provision for loading blackpowder cartridges.
Unlike Dillon presses, which have a removeable toolhead, the LnL's top plate is solid. Hornady's excellent Lock-N-Load system consists of lugged bushings, into which dies are screwed and adjusted. Dies can then be installed in the press with by rotating them 1/6 of a turn. This gives you all the quick-changing convenience of the Dillon toolhead with a more rigid press. A set of Hornady bushings costs about the same as a Dillon toolhead. In addition to a new toolhead, loading a new caliber on the 550 requires a "caliber conversion kit" consisting of a powder/expander funnel, locator buttons, and a shellplate. A conversion kit for the LnL consists of only a shellplate partly since the LnL bells the case mouth and throws the powder charge in different steps. Separating these steps is the "traditional" method; throwing a powder charge through an expander funnel is an idea that was patented by Lee Precision and for which Dillon pays royalties. It is for this reason that Dillon's proprietary die sets do not include a separate expander die, while all brands others do. Additionally, the 550 requires brass "locator buttons" that drop into place at each station outside the shell plate in order to keep cartridges properly snugged up in the plate. These buttons make removing cartridges from intermediate stages (to check a powder charge for instance) difficult. Rather than use locator buttons, the LnL employs a circular coil spring that goes around the shellplate to hold the cartridge in place. Not only does this eliminate the need for different locator pins for different size cartridges, it makes it easy to remove cartridges from any part of the shellplate. Finally, the Hornady shellplate is easier to change out than the 550's. The 550's shellplate is retained with an awkward allen-head bolt and a set screw. The LnL shellplate is retained with single hex head screw that only needs to be hand-tightened.
Early incarnations of the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP received some bad press for their priming system. Thankfully, in February 2003, all LnL's began shipping with an improved priming system (which was also made available for retrofit on older presses). Anecdotally, this priming system is more reliable than the 550's. First, the new LnL priming system has fewer moving parts than the 550's and its parts are less subject to wear (witness the plastic feeder lips on the 550 primer tubes). The 550's priming system is complicated by the fact that the press must remove old primers and seat new primers in the same location. When depriming with the 550, spent primers are caught by a pivoting catcher that allows bits of debris from the spent primer to fall down into the press and are the principle reason the 550 tends to get so dirty. Further, spent primers are occassionally missed. After a reloading session with the 550, finding spent primers on the floor is almost inevitable. Since the LnL automatically turns the shellplate half a turn on the upstroke and half a turn on the downstroke, it is able to de-prime and prime in separate locations. The LnL deprimes directly into a brass tube to which a rubber hose is attached and routed into a trash can. This eliminates spent primers on the floor and prevents primer debris from dirtying the press. The result is that the LnL stays far, far cleaner than the 550. Maintainability of the LnL is further enhanced by the presense of zerk fittings for keeping the press lubricated. Finally, changing from small to large primers (or vice versa) on the LnL is significantly faster than the 550 (if the LnL primer tube is empty, if not it's only slightly faster).
650 Features at a 550 Price
For less than the price of a Dillon RL550B, the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP gives you all the features (and then some) of the Dillon XL650. The only area in which the XL650 beats the LnL is with an extra die station (even though the LnL and the XL650 both have five die stations, the LnL expands and charges separately). Like the XL650 (and unlike the 550), an automatic casefeeder can be installed on the LnL. You'll occassionally see that the casefeeder requires the purchase of a new "subplate"; this is only true for presses made before February 2003. Further, it is widely accepted that changing calibers on the XL650 is even more difficult (and expensive) than with the RL550B. The Hornady LnL caliber conversion process is easier and quicker than either the 550 or 650. Finally, the prices of caliber conversions for the LnL is slightly cheaper than the 550 (and a good deal cheaper than the 650). For reference, a typical LnL caliber conversion consists of: 1) 4 LnL bushings, 2) Deluxe powder die, 3) Die set, 4) Shellplate (if needed). You should also note that the prices of Hornady accessories tend to be more competitive than Dillon's. Unlike Dillon, which sells most of their merchandise directly with a very small number of resellers, Hornady's products are stocked by many retailers. While the LnL is an excellent choice for any reloader, the LnL is especially well-suited for those who reload (or plan to reload) many calibers.
Questions, comments, death threats? E-mail me at cort [at] vbrpc [dot] org.
P.S. to the guy I sold my 550 to: don't worry it's a great press!
Have you enjoyed this essay? Have you found it useful? Do you have a few dollars floating around that you don't really need? Buy some raffle tickets!!. It's for a good cause (see the link).

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Hornady and Lock-N-Load are trademarks of Hornady Manufacturing Co. This site and its author are unaffiliated with Hornady Manufacturing Co.

[Liquid Rhino]

Originally Posted by EricCartmann

This review is what sold my on the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP press. That and the fact that Hornady gives you 1000 free bullets with the purchase of the press

Also, don't forget 100 free bullets with every set of their dies, too (less s&h, of course).

I was actually looking to purchase an LNL this weekend for .45 & .223. I have the user manual in PDF, but was unable to find an 'included parts' list. I've got some LNL-specific questions if you guys would please steer me in the right direction...

1.)Folks are saying you only need to buy the shellplates & dies (for the press itself), but there is no mention on whether or not the LNL bushings (needed for the dies) are initially included with the press package. I've seen 2-packs available at online retailers, but was unsure if these were replacements or outright necessary. Must they be purchased separately as well?

2.) I imagine the press comes with the powder die as it's part of the measure & fairly universal. Now as far as the PM's inserts (whether it's the $10 cal-specific ones or the $25 micrometer rifle/pistol inserts), where can they be purchased? I have yet to find an online store that lists them. (I've checked Cabela's, Graf & Sons, and a few others with no luck...)

So far, the items on my list are:
Press Items
-Hornady LNL AP Press
-Hornady Dies for .223 (2/set) & .45ACP (3/set)
-Shellplates #1 (.308/.45ACP) & #16 (.223)

Bench Items
-Speer #14 Manual
-Dillon Eliminator Beam Scale
-OneShot Case Lube
-Loading Block
-Tumbler w/ Separator (Incl. Corncob Media/Polish)
-The obvious necessary materials (Brass, Bullets, Powder, Primers)

Do I need the following:
-Powder inserts?
-LNL Die Bushings?
-Case Trimmer (or other tool, like a chamfer)?
-OAL Gauge?
-Any other case or press tools?
-Separate sizer die for rifle cartridges?

Anything Else I'm missing here initially?

And a general reloading question (Keep in mind, I'm new at this):
1.) For .223 (from a semi-auto AR), what's the consensus on trimming the cases effectively? Do I absolutely need to get a trimmer /OAL gauge right away? I was reading that it's necessary mostly after every 3rd or so reload due to the lengthening, but don't want to take everything I read as 'the truth'.

Your comments would be greatly appreciated!

[EricCartmann]

Originally Posted by Liquid Rhino

Also, don't forget 100 free bullets with every set of their dies, too (less s&h, of course).

I was actually looking to purchase an LNL this weekend for .45 & .223. I have the user manual in PDF, but was unable to find an 'included parts' list. I've got some LNL-specific questions if you guys would please steer me in the right direction...

1.)Folks are saying you only need to buy the shellplates & dies (for the press itself), but there is no mention on whether or not the LNL bushings (needed for the dies) are initially included with the press package. I've seen 2-packs available at online retailers, but was unsure if these were replacements or outright necessary. Must they be purchased separately as well?

2.) I imagine the press comes with the powder die as it's part of the measure & fairly universal. Now as far as the PM's inserts (whether it's the $10 cal-specific ones or the $25 micrometer rifle/pistol inserts), where can they be purchased? I have yet to find an online store that lists them. (I've checked Cabela's, Graf & Sons, and a few others with no luck...)

So far, the items on my list are:
Press Items
-Hornady LNL AP Press
-Hornady Dies for .223 (2/set) & .45ACP (3/set)
-Shellplates #1 (.308/.45ACP) & #16 (.223)

Bench Items
-Speer #14 Manual
-Dillon Eliminator Beam Scale
-OneShot Case Lube
-Loading Block
-Tumbler w/ Separator (Incl. Corncob Media/Polish)
-The obvious necessary materials (Brass, Bullets, Powder, Primers)

Do I need the following:
-Powder inserts?
-LNL Die Bushings?
-Case Trimmer (or other tool, like a chamfer)?
-OAL Gauge?
-Any other case or press tools?
-Separate sizer die for rifle cartridges?

Anything Else I'm missing here initially?

And a general reloading question (Keep in mind, I'm new at this):
1.) For .223 (from a semi-auto AR), what's the consensus on trimming the cases effectively? Do I absolutely need to get a trimmer /OAL gauge right away? I was reading that it's necessary mostly after every 3rd or so reload due to the lengthening, but don't want to take everything I read as 'the truth'.

Your comments would be greatly appreciated!

Would have gotten back to you sooner Rhino, but did not see this post till now.

I myself resize after every range trip, for 223 and 308

Powder Inserts - You won't need the powder inserts since you are only loading .223, .45, and .308 and it comes with all the inserts you need. If you are loading bigger caliber you will need the expander inserts. Midway sells them, such as this one: MidwayUSA - Hornady Quick Change Powder Die Powder Through Expander 357 Diameter

Powder Cop Die - This is basically another name for a powder check. It is really not needed but it is nice to check each case and make sure you powdered each case properly. MidwayUSA - Hornady Powder Cop Die

Quick Powder Change Die - This is a handy die so you don't have to keep on re-adjusting powder drops between calibers. When you change caliber you just change this die. MidwayUSA - Hornady Quick Change Powder Die

Die Bushings - The LNL only comes with 5 die bushings. So if you are reloading 2 more calibers, you will need minimum 5 more. Might as well buy the 10 pack: MidwayUSA - Hornady Lock-N-Load Die Bushings Package of 10

Case Cutter and Chamfer tool - I bought the Lee Ball Cutter ($5) for 308 and 223 to cut my cases. You will also need the Lee length gauge and shell holders ($4 for both) for 308 and 223. Might as well buy 2 cutters so you don't have to swap out the guage frequently. Then you will also need the Lee Trimmer Cutter and lock stud ($5). This stud will let lock a case onto an electric drill or screwdriver so you don't have to trim manually. Then you will need a chamfer tool and primer pocket cleaner, both go for about $3 each from Lee.

Swage Tool - RCBS sells one for about $25. It will swage both 223 and 308 military brass. Swaging is a process that removes the military crimp from the primer pocket so you can load the new primer... it basically just makes the primer hole bigger. Commerial brass the primers are not crimped so swaging is not needed.

Single Stage Press - you will need one of these to Swage and resize the brass. I normally resize and decapp in one single stage process. Then after this they get trimmed and chamfered... then I will move onto the progressive press and resize again in station #1. I bought the Lee Classic Press, goes for about $70. If you got more money buy better, buy the best you can afford, you will be glad you did!

Lee Auto Prime. This is a hand priming tool, even though you have a priming station on your LNL, it is nice to have this to to check to see if your swaging was done properly. Not really needed but nice to have. The one from Lee only cost $13.

Lee Factory Crimp Dies. Crimp dies does not come with the Lee Die sets for rifles. For 223 and 308 I have found crimping is not really necessary as it chrono's the same and gets the same accuracy with crimping or without crimping. But each die only cost $10 so you might as well get them.

Lee Decapper. This is a universal die that will decap all calibers; and only goes for about $7. This will be needed for 308 military brass as Most Lake City .308 were shot out of machine guns with really loose headspace; deforming the brass more than usual, this makes re-sizing really difficult. On top of the re-LC sizing, the crimping on 308 is on there super tight. The reason for this super tight crimp to preven machine guns from knocking out the primers. I have found it is better to separate the decapping and sizing into 2 separate steps.

Here is how I have my LNL set up:
1) Sizing and Decapping
2) Powder Drop
3) Bullet Seating
4) Powder Check
5) Crimp