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Old 03-14-2008, 06:18 PM   #1
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My first AK-47 Kit! (caution - several pics)

Well, I got my Romanian AK-47 kit from Military Gun Supply (no more in stock now). I don't know about the price. I paid 150+12 for shipping. The bore, bolt, piston, etc look like it was barely used. Excellent condition. The wood looks a bit rough...but definitely workable. I have no idea what the markings mean, other than it appears to be from 1986. It was a "non-G issue"...whatever that means. I should add that all of the serial numbers match from the bolt down to the wood. Anyway, here's some pics-




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Old 03-14-2008, 06:40 PM   #2
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Triangle with the arrow is the Arsenal/country of origin mark, 1986 is the build date, RCxxxx is your serial number. 'G' kits have a big 'G' (Garda) stamped on the rear sight block. And was a modified AK in semi only for the Romanian Patriotic Guards. the 'G' kits were the most heavily imported Romanian kits to the US.

Like this...
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:19 PM   #3
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Thanks Einheit. Unfortunately all is not good. All metal is great. But when I removed the butt stock, I got 2 pieces. It was cracked right where the screw passes through. Judging from discoloration and that some of wood looked stressed sideways, it appears to have been cracked for some time...probably 22 yrs.

I'm going to try and get a replacement from Military Gun Supply, where I bought it. But they are completely out of stock on these kits. If they are, I'll push for a credit.

If I can't get one from them, any suggestions for a replacement stock? Ideally, I'd get one like the original. I try to keep my older guns in their original condition. Just personal taste, I reckon. But I don't care for the bubba look.
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:53 PM   #4
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If the stock worked that way before, it may still work. Have you considered the possibility of using wood glue to repair it? Just glue it up, and clamp it, and it would probably be good as new!

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Old 03-15-2008, 04:18 AM   #5
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If the stock worked that way before, it may still work. Have you considered the possibility of using wood glue to repair it? Just glue it up, and clamp it, and it would probably be good as new!
I agree. If you have trouble finding a correct replacement, take it to someone who is good with wood repairs. I'd take it to a guy I know who is a luthier(guitar repair), but any woodworker could probably do it. There are techniques of gluing wood where it is hard to even see the repair and the repairs are very strong. Believe it or not, superglue works very well for oily woods and the glued crack will be stronger than the surrounding wood. Wood glue is easier to work with and I would feel more comfortable doing that myself, but an experienced repairman can probably make a very strong, and nearly undetectable repair if it is a clean crack along the wood grain.
Maybe they can credit you for the price you pay to have it repaired.

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Old 03-15-2008, 05:26 AM   #6
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PM replied to....
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:34 AM   #7
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Romanian stock kits are cheap, check akfiles or even arf.com most guys sell all the wood for $20-$30 shipped.
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:06 AM   #8
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PM me your address. I've got one you can have.
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Old 03-16-2008, 06:04 AM   #9
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PM me your address. I've got one you can have.
PM sent and many thanks for the offer. Fortunately my friend that ordered his kits at the same time decided he wasn't going to use the wood; so I've got a this problem solved.

BUT...that BARREL PIN!!! What a friggin nightmare! So far in the competition, the barrel pin is winning and is still there.

I've been looking at AR15.com, etc and have tried a 3 lb hammer, large steel punch, and vise. In yesterday's battle, I don't even think it budged. Unfortunately I don't have access to a press, so I'm not sure what to try next. I thought about smacking it some more, maybe lay it flat with some wood between the concrete with a gap for the pin to move (just to get it started). I thought of soaking it in liquid wrench, but I doubt any of the oil will penetrate. Maybe heat the assembly in the oven to 200F and try it while it's hot.

Any suggestions?
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Old 03-16-2008, 08:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdavionic View Post
PM sent and many thanks for the offer. Fortunately my friend that ordered his kits at the same time decided he wasn't going to use the wood; so I've got a this problem solved.

BUT...that BARREL PIN!!! What a friggin nightmare! So far in the competition, the barrel pin is winning and is still there.

I've been looking at AR15.com, etc and have tried a 3 lb hammer, large steel punch, and vise. In yesterday's battle, I don't even think it budged. Unfortunately I don't have access to a press, so I'm not sure what to try next. I thought about smacking it some more, maybe lay it flat with some wood between the concrete with a gap for the pin to move (just to get it started). I thought of soaking it in liquid wrench, but I doubt any of the oil will penetrate. Maybe heat the assembly in the oven to 200F and try it while it's hot.

Any suggestions?
Darn, you found a solution to the wood. I was already to pay for shipping so you could get rid of that thing

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Barrel Pin,


Try heat, but not from the standpoint of removing the pin while heat is being applied. Use heat to create expansion and let it cool back to room temperature. Try the soak in penetrating oil and just be patient. You are breaking a molecular bond that has occurred over time, and possibly an interference fit.
The only way heat would help removal is if you could equally heat the whole thing until it reaches thermal equilibrium, then using a cooling method that can be quickly applied to the pin with minimal to no transfer of cooling to the barrel.
Metals expand when heated and contract when cooled.
I have no idea how the original assembly was put together, but if you wanted a tight fit, you would heat the part with the hole until it reaches thermal equilibrium. Cool the pin in a like fashion. The hole can actually be smaller than the pin when both items are at the same temperature. Yet if heated to proper temperature and held until equilibrium occurs, the hole will actually get larger.
If heat and cold are applied properly, the parts will drop together, possibly even loosely, yet when both items are at the same temperature, they will in effect be one part due to an interference fit.
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